January 2004, Thailand: Around Chiang Mai

Chiangmai is the longest continuously lived in settlement from the ancient days of Siam. Within the remaining brick walls surrounding the ancient city can be found more than 30 temples. Some temple sites dating back to the founding of the principality in 1296 A.D.

Doi Suthep is a temple at 3,500 feet overlooking the plains where Chiangmai is located. A shrine to both Thai and foreign visitors, its auspicious site was selected by a royal elephant that roamed up the steep forested mountainside hundreds of years ago.

 

 

Up to 70 percent of all men in central Thailand become monks on a temporary basis. I found a charming description of a young boy's experience of being a novice monk for one month on Project Thailand. He writes:

When my grandfather died, I ordained as a nehn or novice monk. In Thai this is called buat nah fai which means ordination in front of fire. Thai people believe when they die they will go to paradise by holding on to a monk's robe. So I became a monk to help my grandfather go to paradise. My grandfather was cremated about seven days after I became a monk. Most boys are monks for only one or two days. But I was a novice monk for a month because it was the school holidays.

Before the ordination ceremony I had to learn a lot of things. For example the 10 Precepts: don't kill, steal, have sex, lie, drink beer and wine, eat after midday, sing and dance, wear hats or watches, sleep on a soft bed and accept a lot of money. I had to learn this in Pali which is an old language and very difficult to say. Older monks have to learn and keep 227 Precepts.

The breathtaking panorama view of Chiang Mai from Doi Suthep at night.

Mary and Eddie at Gap's House, my favourite guesthouse in Chiangmai.

 

The joys of a butterfly farm.

 

My little friend -- the most persistent girl in Chiang Mai, I am sure. She would not leave my hand until I gave her 10 Baht, for at least 10 minutes, singing and chanting her request. But with great charm, I have to give her that.

For more information, here is an excellent guide to Chiangmai: Welcome to Chiangmai Magazine.

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Silvija Seres, January 2004