January 2004, Thailand: Mae Khong cruise

Life on the banks of mighty Mekong. The Mekong River (known in Thailand as Mae Nam Khong), is a major river in southeastern Asia. It is the longest river in the region. From its source in China's Qinghai Province near the border with Tibet, the Mekong flows a distance of 4,200 km, and forms the border between Burma and Laos and most of the border between Laos and Thailand. It then flows across Cambodia and southern Vietnam into a rich delta before emptying into the South China Sea.

Our trip was in an area where Mekong runs between Thailand and Laos, close to the Golden Triangle. Above this point, the river has some steep descents and swift rapids, but from where we sailed it is easily navigable.

 

The first tribe we came across was Akha. Generally, hill tribes have devised distinctive traditional costumes that they wear as the badge of their identity. Traditional dress in thailand is not discouraged like it is in Burma but it is nevertheless disappearing due to the convenience and cheapness of modern clothing. The Akha have however discovered the tourist trade and have become skillful at producing what the market wants.

 

Animism, tattooing, teeth blackening, marriage rituals and seasonal festivals are shared between many different tribes in South East Asia. Here, the darkened teeth are covered by a thick layer after many years of betel nuts chewing; this layer supposedly protects them from decay.

Long-neck Karen women have the distinctive brass rings that they wear from early childhood in order to stretch their necks. This tribe has raltively recently emigrated to Thailand from Burma. The neck rings are taken off once a year, for the annual neck washing. The upper part of the ring consist of a single long brass coil, the lower part is separate. One theory I have heard is that they effectively stop the women from marrying men from other tribes.

 

Beautiful, serious children. Until they discover their images on a digital camera, from which point they will not stop laughing.

 

 

Previous Next Index Home

page 3 of 8

Silvija Seres, January 2004